I would suggest you refer to I-joists as I-joists, not "I-beams". The beam would make it difficult to get any mechanicals through from one side to the other. My first thought in reading your post is that hanging 2X joists on a flush LVL beam is a bad idea. Have you read the Spec House from Hell thread ? The reason I ask is that it was my first house, it's 28' wide, and I wanted a clear span floor. While price is always an issue, I’m looking for a balance between what’s best and how much more that will cost. I’ve read all the pros of using I beam system- seems like better than conventional system but costs more. Should I be looking at using I beam joists to run the entire 28′ span? If I’m reading the span charts correct, it appears I might be able to use an I beam that has 3-1/2 flange and 14″ Can’t find a price online for those. Using a haunch (right term for footing between foundation walls?) and build carrying walls for beam could work at one end of building but not other. I’d also have a bump at bottom of beam to finesse around because of dimensional differences between the 2X10 and the LVL. Three problems 1) beam needs two lally columns in places I’d like to keep open, 2) beam price is killing me and 3) hanging floor joists just doesn’t seem the strongest way to set a floor system. The guy doing my drawings has suggested I use a 40′ 5-1/4 X 14″ lam carrying beam and hang 14′ 2X10’s. First floor would not have any interior bearing walls as I’m using 28′ scissors trusses for ceiling/roof. So, ceiling height and clear spans of space are important issues. Downstairs I’m trying to get a walkout to work so I can put two bedrooms and a bath down there with the Master Bed/Bath on upper floor. The house is a simple(I’m finding out nothing is simple) 28’X40′ ranch. Ok I’m going to take the plunge, call in all my favors and try my first house on my own-my house.
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